Set the mood—one exquisite stone at a time. The most in-depth, technical guide to stone setting has arrived: Gemstone Settings. Jewelry makers will fall in love with this encyclopedic overview, which features extensive stone-setting processes, detailed information about stones and metals, and gorgeous photos and illustrations for visual support. Step by step, learn how to set your most beloved precious, semiprecious, and organic stones with projects that range from elegant diamond masterpieces to earthy pearl or coral everyday favorites. Inside Gemstone Settings, you’ll learn:
the suitability of specific stones and metals;
what makes a design wearable and durable;
premade versus handmade settings.
You’ll soon be setting your own beautiful stones with this essential reference guide.
Foreward
About this Book
Chapter 1: Introduction to Design
History of gem-set jewelry
Contemporary gem-set jewelry
Gem cutting
Design Inspiration
Starting with the stone
Design considerations
Using bought settings
Commissions
Outsourcing
Chapter 2: Gemstone directory
Chapter 3: Techniques Directory
Getting started
Useful tips and troubleshooting
Hand tools
Stone-setting tools
Tool shapes
Basic fabrication techniques
Wax carving
Computer-aided design and manufacturing
Rub-over settings
-Basic bezel setting
-Tube setting
-Dome setting
-Tapered bezel setting
-Bezels with corners
-Flush setting
-Channel setting
Prong settings
-Crown setting
-Basket setting
-Closed-back prong setting
-CAM prong setting
-Applied prong setting
Grain settings
-Grain setting
-Five-grain setting
-Square-grain setting
-Pave setting
-Micro-pave setting
Fancy settings
-Combination setting
-Multiple and cluster setting
-Tension setting
-Caged setting
-Wobbly setting
-Swiveling setting
-Built-up setting
-Protective setting
-Setting from behind
-Upside-down setting
-Capping
-Precious metal clay
-Casting
-Soldering stone into place
-Setting odd-shaped stones
-Settings for interchangeable stones
-Spectacle setting
-Wrapping
-Settings as functional devices
-Mixed materials and other metals
Pearls and gem beads
-Working with pearls
-Stringing pearls and gemstone beads
-Wired beads
Chapter 4: Reference
Conversions
Stone shapes
Templates for settings
Glossary
Suppliers and services
Further reading
Galleries, fairs, and organizations
Index
Acknowledgements
Anastasia Young is a practicing designer, jeweler, and artist whose work has been exhibited internationally. She is a graduate of the Royal College of Art and Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London and is the author of The Workbench Guide to Jewelry Techniques (Interweave). She lives in England.