You’ll Love This Jeweler’s Saw Book If:
- You want to learn tips for how to make metal jewelry & more from artist Thomas Mann
- You love the look of sawn projects, but find the jeweler’s saw intimidating
- You love making interesting jewelry & crafts and want to try something new
Starting with the anatomy of the jeweler’s saw and moving on to important basics such as sawing ergonomics and how to achieve the proper grip, Metal Artist’s Workbench covers everything you need in order to achieve jeweler’s saw success. Expert artist, Thomas Mann shares his top tip and techniques for using a jeweler’s saw, getting you to "saw in the zone, " and become familiar with the jeweler’s saw.
Find out more about "Sawin’ Where Y’at" with exciting projects using metal, plastic, wood, and paper. This comprehensive guide is sure to make the jeweler’s saw your new favorite crafting tool. Learn the importance of the "Whole Body Experience" and so much more with this fun & instructional jeweler’s saw book of jewelry making projects.
In the Metal Artist’s Workbench Book You’ll Learn:
- 15 step-by-step projects such as the Light Switch Plate, Chef’s Knife Pendant, Self-Portrait Pin, Maze Pendant, Cake Stencil, Photo Frame, Cigar Bar, and the Jigsaw Monoprint
- How to safely & professionally cut metal, plastic, wood and paper
- Jeweler’s saw techniques including how to start a cut, turn a corner, pierce and much more
A Word From the Author:
"I hope the system I’ve developed to train my studio assistants helps you learn to use this tool effectively and to enjoy it as much as I do. When I’m in the ’sawing zone,’ there is NOTHING else—there is just the flow. Perhaps you’ll find that zone for yourself with this fabulous tool." — Thomas Mann
Check Out This Excerpt From Metal Artist’s Workbench:
The Bench Pin
One of the four components of a wonderful sawing experience—besides YOU, the SAW and the MATERIAL to be sawn—is the BENCH PIN. Just as the saw frame and blade are an extension of your mind and body, so too is the bench pin an extension of the workbench.
They come in all shapes, sizes and functions. They are made from a wide variety of materials. Maple and oak traditionally have been preferred, but I have been making mine out of plywood. I have some commercial pins that are used only for splitting ring bands or jump ring coils. There are traditional forms and modern ones. I have designed my own specifically for the way we work in my studio relative to the kind of jewelry we make. No matter the form, they are all essential to the sawing experience because they serve several important functions. 1. They are a safety device. Used properly, they will protect you from inadvertently sawing into your fingers. 2. They extend the work surface off of the bench to allow clearance for the necessary movements of your hand and the saw frame in the sawing process. And 3. They support the work and provide a stable platform, eliminating vibration and wobble, an essential condition to
GOOD sawin’ operations.
A bench pin should provide a stable platform for the sawing operation. Most bench pins come as blanks, ostensibly so you can cut them to your personal specs. If you don’t have a band saw handy in your shop, you’ll have to use handsaws or maybe even your jeweler’s saw frame with a #3 or #4 blade, to saw out a wedge, giving you the traditional form of the bench pin. You could also use a coping saw for this. The bench pin should be solidly mounted in its holder—usually cast iron or steel. I have found that in most cases the shank, or stem of these pins, must be trimmed and shimmed into the holder to get it snug enough to provide that stable support.
I cut my pins to accommodate the peculiar way I make jewelry. I am often sawing small parts, so I need support for those small pieces. I cut a lozenge-shaped slot in the left point of the pin and drill a 1⁄4" (6mm) hole in the right point. Each has a cut from the outside of the pin through which I can slip a blade in sideways and saw little bits that are then completely supported. The front of the pin has indentations cut in as well—one half round, the other V-shaped—for positioning objects for filing and shaping operations. I insert a miniature fillister head screw in a no. 55 drill hole or a 16g ball-headed rivet in the flat upside tip as well, as a stop on the flat surface for objects I am shaping.
The Sweet Spot: Every bench pin has one. It’s where the vibration of the sawing operation is optimally minimized. Usually this is at the very depth of the big V cut. You’ll want to know where the sweet spot in your pin is as that’s where you’ll want to be for the best sawing results.
Check out this exciting free excerpt: How to create a calder spoon using sheet aluminum and jewelers tools from Metal Artist's Workbench!
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